Friday, 8 May 2009

Samarkand


A picture says a thousand words - the Registan, Samarkand

The Ulugbek Medressa (1420) - Ulugbek was a grandson of tyrant Emir Timur who built this glittering almost mythical Islamic capital in the 14th century. Samarkand originally was a key Silk Road city dating from the 2nd century BC with trading routes from the West spanning out to Persia, India and China

Aye just walk across the line of my photo!

Tilla-Kari Medressa (1660) - the three medressas of The Registan are among the world's oldest

Sher Dor Medressa (1636) - unusual decoration with lions flouts Islam's prohibition against the depiction of live animals

Cobalt blue tiling of a dome of the Tilla-Kari Medressa with some insensitive Soviet restoration. Across the land the communists destroyed thousands of mosques etc but kept what they considered showcase religous edifices. The above two pics were taken hanging off the top of a minaret of the Ulugbek Medressa after paying a cop a backhander. Descending the crumbling staircase not for the first time I found myself locked in a mineret!

The courtyard of The Ulugbek Medressa like the majority is now soulless and is used to sell souvenirs. Karimov's regime ensures religion is still on the backfoot.

Guri Amir Mausoleum is the burial place of Timur (14th century ruler) and his descendants

Camera shy ladies at The Siob Bazaar which seemed rather sanitised by Asian standards

Hats off to the locals who wanted their pic taken by The Bibi-Khanym Mosque

Stunning tilework in a tomb at The Shah-I-Zinda - an emotive shrine where Quasim ibn Abbas, a cousin of the Prophet Mohammed is buried

The blue dome marks Quasim ibn Abbas' tomb dating back to the 7th century. Rebuilt in its present form after Mongol destruction in the 13th century

Even more tilework!

Parallel universe - Across the road from the splendour of The Registan a typical decaying apartment block

Soviet Daze!

Emir Timur (now reinvented as a national hero) is one in a long line of ruthless dictators, that include Jenghiz Khan, Stalin and present incumbent Islom Karimov

The fall of the Soviet dream! - The G.U.M. State Department Store epitomised Soviet shopping - broken fountains, long queues and empty sheves. Now overflowing with imported counterfeit goods

Thursday, 7 May 2009

Tashkent


Soviet cosmonaut monument. Notice a bottle green uniformed cop lurking in the background. Police are omnipresent in Uzbekistan but nowhere more than Tashkent the capital city where their claustrophobic and intimidating presence keeps the population in check

Hospitality at the gritty B & B Ali Tour - a welcome change from the daily servings of greasy plov, the much favoured Uzbek national dish

Ali Ali give us a wave!

Navoi Park and the stunningly ugly Peoples' Friendship Palace built in the 1950's. I wonder if the planners of Kilmarnock Town Centre had a junket here in the '70's
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More wonderful Soviet showcasing at Navoi Park - A Khrushchev era utilitariun conrete hulk - The Wedding Palace is a gem!

Socialist utopia!!! Row after row of apartment blocks fronted with wide boulevards and bleak vacuous open spaces

Controlling the masses - housing above, state run shops below!

The old, the new and the Lada! This shiny new bank is symbolic of a changing Tashkent - more than likely its ATMs were empty like every other bank! The dollar is king - most places on the street (illegally) will willingly palm off a thick wad of thier inflation ridden monopoly currency in exchange

Its not a fair cop!!!!! - Entrance to Mustaqillik Maydoni Metro Station. The metro was where I found a new hobby -continually showing my passport and visa to police! Police are meant to solve problems. In the former Soviet Union they create problems!

Independance Monument - celebrating independance from the Soviet yoke in 1991

Government buildings at Independance Square - here the police presence was becoming more than wearing - at every twist and turn one was never far from my shoulder. Blue uniformed female work cadres is indicative of Karimov's oppressive neo communist / nationalist state which tolerates no dissent

One blade out of place and its off to the Gulag! Karimov's totalitarian regime has thousands of political prisoners

The Crying Mother Monument - in honour of Uzbek soldiers who died whilst serving in The Red Army in the defeat of Nazi Germany in World War 2.

Paying homage to those that fell - all 400 000 Uzbek soldiers are named

The Eternal Flame


Memorial to the Tashkent Earthquake 1966 . . . . .

Celebration of Soviet might - the rescue of earthquake victims . . . . .


Emir Timur plans a new conquest! For me it was off to the airport for a final shakedown with police at immigration!

An interesting but relatively unknown museum where an entrepreneur has rescued abandoned remains from a former Soviet airbase at Riga Airport

Mil Mi-8T multirole transport helicopter

MI6 multi purpose transport helicopter - first flight 5th June 1957 - capacity 61 soldiers

Mil Mi-24A armoured fire support helicopter

Tupolev Tu 22Mi twin engined variable geometry medium bomber

MIG 23M 1972

Yak 28-R Reconnaisance aircraft

Aero L-13 Blanik 1956 training glider (foreground); Sukhov Sv 7BKL single seat gun attack aircraft 1965 (background)

Searchlights and bombs

Mil Mi - 4 multirole helicopter 1952 (foreground); Mi6 multipurpose transport helicopter (background)